What is the cost of being wrong on this step, and what is the cheapest model that clears that bar?
That single question sorts almost every choice. When a mistake is expensive and you are not running the step millions of times, buy the top of the board and move on. When the step is high-volume and a good-enough answer is fine, the cheapest capable model wins on economics every time. The frontier now spans roughly a fifty-fold range in output price, so the gap between a careful pick and a lazy one is real money.
Everything below is that question applied to specific jobs. Find the row that looks like your work, then use the live picks as a shortlist to test against your own task.